South of Florianópolis, the coast of Santa Catarina runs past a river mouth, a fishing bay and a beach between green headlands. This guide is for you if you are planning a day down that coast to Guarda do Embaú, Garopaba and Praia do Rosa. It helps you pick the month, read the tide, decide how many beaches you really want, and get back without losing the evening to the BR-101.
Whales or swimming: pick your season
The month decides what kind of day this is.
Southern right whales come to this coast between July and November, and they are sometimes seen close to the beaches around Praia do Rosa. Those are the cooler months. On long-term averages for Florianópolis, July is the coolest and driest month, with highs around 19 degrees. A whale day is a day of watching the sea from the beach, with a jacket on.
From December to March it is beach weather, with highs in the upper twenties, but January is also the wettest month, and the season is the busiest. Tourists arrive around Christmas and the crowds last into Carnival. The beaches are fuller, and so is the road.
Spring, in October and November, falls between the two: the whales may still be offshore, the summer crowds have not started, and the weather is warming. If you can choose freely, it is a good compromise.
The road there and back
Praia do Rosa is about 90 kilometres south of Florianópolis, mostly on the BR-101. You reach Guarda do Embaú after about an hour, and the drive home from Praia do Rosa takes around an hour and a half with traffic. Tolls are included.
The weak point of the road is Morro dos Cavalos, in Palhoça, on the way out of Greater Florianópolis. It is a known bottleneck: one December a landslide there left a queue of around 30 kilometres southbound. In the weeks between Christmas and New Year, expect slow traffic on every main road in the state, and leave on time from Praia do Rosa. The 07:00 start also helps: you are through Palhoça early.
Guarda do Embaú: the tide and the boat
Guarda do Embaú is a village in the Serra do Tabuleiro State Park. The beach is on the far side of the mouth of the Rio da Madre, and local boatmen take you across for a small fare. That fare is not included, so carry a little local cash.
The tide matters here. At high tide the channel is deep, and the advice is to take the boat rather than swim across. With children or bags, the boat is the sensible choice at any tide.
You can also climb the Pedra do Urubu from the village. It is about half an hour up, steep near the top. Wear proper shoes, not sandals, and allow time from your two and a half hours there.
How many beaches do you want?
The plan covers three, in order: Guarda do Embaú in the morning, Garopaba around the middle of the day, then lunch and the afternoon at Praia do Rosa. That is a lot of getting in and out of the car on a hot day.
Many people choose to spend the whole afternoon at Praia do Rosa instead. You can also drop Garopaba, or stay longer at Guarda. Tell your driver what matters most when you set off. Garopaba, with fishing boats pulled up on the sand, is the stop to shorten if you want more time in the water elsewhere.
Praia do Rosa has the Ibiraquera lagoon behind the village, and lunch in the village is where the afternoon starts.
On your own, or with a driver
You can reach this coast by renting a car and driving the BR-101 yourself. The catch is the same as on any beach day in summer: the queues at Morro dos Cavalos, finding somewhere to park at each beach, and a long drive home when you are tired from the sun. A private day puts a driver on the road and leaves you to choose the beaches. The price depends on the size of your group; see it on the tour page.
What to bring
- Swimming things, towels and sun cream, plus a hat for the long middle of the day.
- Local cash for the boat across the river at Guarda do Embaú.
- Shoes with a grip if you plan to climb the Pedra do Urubu.
- A dry bag or a plastic bag for your phone on the river crossing.
- A warm layer from July to November, when you will be standing still watching the sea.
- A card or cash for lunch and drinks, which are not included.
Who it suits, and who should think twice
It suits beach lovers who have already seen the island, families who want a long day on the sand, and anyone in Florianópolis in whale season. Think twice if long drives are hard for anyone in your group: at least two and a half hours of the ten are on the road. If you would rather stay on the island, the south of the island tour gives you dunes, a lagoon and a fishing village with shorter drives. Our guide to private tours in Florianópolis compares all five.
Anyone with limited mobility should tell us when booking. The river crossing means getting in and out of a boat.
Groups of more than 16 travel in two vehicles on one booking. Message us and we will price it.
Questions people ask
Will we see whales?
Only between July and November, and never for certain. They are sometimes close to the beaches around Praia do Rosa. Bring binoculars if you have them.
Can we cancel?
Yes. Cancel up to 24 hours before pick-up and you are refunded in full. See our cancellation page.
Booking the day
Choose the season for what you want, whales or warm water, and decide whether you want all three beaches or one long afternoon at Praia do Rosa. Times, stops and what is included are on the Guarda do Embaú, Garopaba and Praia do Rosa private day trip page, where you choose the size of your group and book.