Salvador's old town sits on a cliff above the bay, and the church of Bonfim sits on a hill in the lower city. This guide is for you if you have half a day for both. It helps you pick a start time, avoid the days when the streets are full, and know what to carry up the hill.
Two cities, one cliff
The upper town is built on an escarpment about 85 metres high, according to UNESCO. It was the defensive, administrative and residential quarter, and the port and its trade stayed below. Salvador was Brazil's capital from 1549 to 1763, and from 1558 it held the first slave market in the New World. The historic centre was inscribed on the World Heritage list in 1985.
The Elevador Lacerda joins the two levels. It opened on 8 December 1873, designed and built by the engineer Antônio de Lacerda with his brother Augusto Frederico. The tower is 72 metres tall and was listed by IPHAN, Brazil's national heritage body, in 2006. It is a working piece of public transport, not an attraction: around 28,000 people ride it on an average day. Keep a little local cash for the fare, which is not included.
The Pelourinho itself keeps its sixteenth-century street plan. About 1,350 buildings were restored in the 1990s, with tourism in mind. UNESCO notes the other side of that: the number of people living in the historic centre fell from 9,853 in 1980 to 3,235 in 2000. Much of what you walk past now is there for visitors.
Morning or afternoon?
The tour leaves your hotel at 07:00 or 13:00. Both work, but they meet the city differently.
On the morning start you are at Bonfim early and quiet, and you reach the Pelourinho before the midday heat. The catch is the Mercado Modelo. The city's official tourism site gives its hours as 9:00 to 18:00 from Monday to Saturday and 9:00 to 14:00 on Sunday, so at around 08:15 many stalls may not be open yet. Your driver can change the order on the day, so say if the market matters to you.
On the afternoon start the market is open on weekdays and Saturdays, but on a Sunday it closes at 14:00, before you get there. The church of the Third Order of São Francisco, next to São Francisco, is listed as open daily from 8:00 to 12:00 and from 13:00 to 17:00. A visit after 16:30 would be short. Churches set their own hours, so check the official site before you go if one in particular is the reason for your trip.
The afternoon start has one advantage: you can end the day in the old town. The driver can leave you at a restaurant in the Pelourinho or Santo Antônio instead of taking you back.
The days that change the old town
Salvador's calendar matters more than its weather for this tour. Check your dates against these.
- The Lavagem do Bonfim. A procession walks 8 km from the church of Conceição da Praia, in the lower city, to Bonfim, where the steps are washed. It falls on the second Thursday after 6 January, so the date moves each year. The festival has run since 1745, and IPHAN registered it as national heritage in 2013. On that day, Bonfim is the point of the procession, not a quiet visit.
- Carnival. One of the three main circuits, the Batatinha, runs through the Pelourinho. In the days before Lent, expect closed streets and music in the old town.
- The rainy months. In Salvador the wettest months are April, May and June. May is the wettest, with around 22 days of rain on average. Showers on the cobbles make them slippery, so the shoes matter more then.
The ribbons at Bonfim
The ribbons tied to the railings have a longer story than the souvenir stalls suggest. The first records of them date from 1809, when the treasurer of the devotion made them to raise money for the church. They were called the medida do Bonfim, the measure of Bonfim, and were 47 cm long, the length of the statue's arm. People wore them around the neck.
Today you tie one around your wrist with three knots, one wish for each. The custom is that you keep the wishes secret, and they come true when the ribbon falls off by itself. The colours are linked to the orixás of Candomblé: light blue for Yemanjá, yellow for Oxum, white for Oxalá, who is associated with the Senhor do Bonfim. The basilica no longer sells ribbons itself, and the ones tied to the railings are gathered and burned in a ceremony every few months.
What to wear and bring
- Flat shoes with grip. The Pelourinho is cobbled, and the Largo do Pelourinho slopes steeply.
- Local cash in small notes for the lift, the church entrances, the market and drinks. None of these is included.
- Sun cream, a hat and water. You are on foot for much of the time in the old town.
- A small bag you can keep in front of you. The streets are busy with visitors by day, and phones are best kept close.
Who this half day suits
It suits a first visit to Salvador, a cruise call, or a day when you want the history and not the beach. We can collect you at the cruise terminal. Check your all-aboard time against the five hours before you book, and choose the start that leaves a margin.
Think about the walking if anyone in your group finds slopes and uneven stone hard. The lift does the cliff and the car does the hills, but the Pelourinho itself is seen on foot. The driver can drop you close to each square and meet you at the next, which helps.
If you also want the beaches, the Salvador in a day tour adds Barra and Rio Vermelho in the afternoon. If the African history of the city is your main interest, the Afro-Brazilian heritage tour spends its time on museums and the Rosário dos Pretos church instead. Our guide to day trips from Salvador compares all five.
Questions people ask
Do we need a guide?
The tour is a private vehicle and driver. Your driver plans the order of the stops and knows where to drop you and meet you. Inside the churches and the market you go at your own pace.
Can we change the order?
Yes. The itinerary can be changed on the day, which is useful when a church is closed or the market is not open yet.
Can we cancel?
Yes. Cancel up to 24 hours before pick-up and you get a full refund. See our cancellation page.
Booking the half day
Pick your start time with the market and the churches in mind, check your date against the Lavagem and Carnival, and pack flat shoes. The price depends on the size of your group; see it on the Pelourinho, Elevador Lacerda and Bonfim tour page, where you choose the start time and book.
